Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Replace Brake Master Cylinder

The master cylinder in the Jeep Wrangler is the reservoir that holds the brake fluid. If something is wrong with it, the system loses pressure and the brakes lose effectiveness. Read on to learn how to replace it yourself.By Bassem Girgis – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The master cylinder is also known as the brake reservoir. It is a pressurized container that displaces hydraulic pressure to the rest of the brake system. Over time, the master cylinder in the Jeep Wrangler can get faulty and lose pressure, which would result in a spongy brake pedal and a decrease in brake performance. Replacing the master cylinder is not a hard job; however, it requires you to bleed your brake system afterwards, which is also not a difficult job. In this guide, we will show you how you can replace the master cylinder in your Jeep Wrangler, bleed the brake system, and get back on the road or off the road.

Figure 1. Master cylinder.

Materials Needed

  • Turkey baster
  • Wrench
  • Socket set
  • Hose
  • Bottle
  • Brake fluid

Step 1 – Siphon brake fluid

Before removing the master cylinder, siphon the brake fluid using your turkey baster from the brake fluid reservoir. Simply suck the fluid out and pour it into a container. Be very cautious not to get any of it on the paint. Place a towel under the master cylinder for when you remove it.

Figure 2. Remove fluid from master cylinder.

Step 2 – Remove master cylinder

Remove the brake lines attached to the master cylinder. You can either plug them or place them facing up to allow gravity to help you avoid spillage. Disconnect the electrical sensor by squeezing it and pulling it out. The master cylinder is held in place by two nuts attached to the brake booster’s studs. Simply remove the two nuts, and slowly pull the master cylinder out. Be sure to wipe any fluid that drips on your car or its components.

Figure 3. Master cylinder held in place by two nuts.

Step 3 – Install new master cylinder

Install the brake fluid reservoir on the new master cylinder and install it in place the same way you removed it. The two holes will go onto the two studs coming out of the brake booster, then install the two nuts over them. Connect the brake lines and the electrical harness, then fill it with brake fluid to the max line.

Figure 4. Master cylinder installed.

Step 4 – Bleed your brakes

To bleed your brakes, you will need to start on the passenger’s side rear, then the driver’s rear side, the passenger’s front and finally end on the driver’s side. Locate the bleeder screw on each of the brake calipers, connect a hose to it and connect the other end of the hose to a bottle. Ask a friend to pump the brake pedal a few times, then keep it pressed down. Loosen the bleed screw for a few seconds and let the brake fluid flow out. Close the valve, have your willing assistant repeat the process of pumping the pedal, then holding it down, and then open the bleed valve. Repeat this process until clear, new fluid comes out of the caliper, free of all air bubbles.

Figure 5. Bleeder screw on brake caliper.

Figure 6. Bleed your brakes.

Related Discussions

Jeep Wrangler JK: Brakes Diagnostic Guide

Do you feel a difference in your brake system? Learn how to diagnose your Jeep Wrangler’s brakes here.By Bassem Girgis – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

Nothing is worse than brake issues in the Jeep Wrangler. The brake system is the hardest working system in your Jeep Wrangler. Your brake system is a pressurized system that allows the brake calipers’ pistons to clamp when you press the brake pedal, which creates friction when the pads clamp on the rotors and that’s what stops your car. There are numerous things that can go wrong in your brake system, but the good news is diagnosing it isn’t too difficult. This guide will go over some of the most common problems that can arise in your braking system. Read on to learn how you can diagnose the brakes in your Jeep Wrangler.

Materials Needed

  • Jack and jack stands
  • Tire iron
  • Socket set
  • Flashlight

Step 1 – Check for leaks

Your brakes could be leaking.

A brake fluid leak will result in a spongy brake pedal. Also, air inside your pressurized brake system will also cause your brake pedal to feel spongy. If you feel the brake pedal feels strange or you notice the brake fluid reservoir is low on fluid, grab your flashlight and check the brake lines for leaks. Check under the car, on the connections between the brake caliper and brake line, then check the master cylinder for any signs of wetness. If you discover a leak coming from a brake line, replace the brake line and bleed your brakes.

Figure 1. Check behind the caliper for brake line leak.

If there are no leaks, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check brake pads

They could be worn.

The brake pads get worn, that’s their job. If you start hearing squealing when you step on the brake pedal, this means your pads are wearing. The louder the squealing, the worst it is. To check the brake pads, you will need to raise your Jeep and secure it on jack stands. Remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper’s two rear bolts, and check the pads. The minimum brake pad thickness is 2-3mm. If it’s too thin, replace it with new pads.

Alternatively, if you’re suspecting a brake pad issue but the pads look within spec, actually pull them from the caliper and inspect the faces that contact the rotor. It is not unknown to have defective brake pads. Yours truly once snapped a pair of brake pads in half, causing a terrible braking vibration. They looked fine when they were in the caliper, but upon removal came out in pieces.

Figure 2. Brake pads (old vs. new).

If the pads are thick enough, move on to Step 3.

Step 3 – Check rotors

They could be rusted, cracked, or grooved.

The brake rotors tend to go bad if you expose them to rough weather conditions for too long without using them, or if you continue to use your worn brake pads. Worn brake rotors will also result in squealing when braking, and they would affect your brake’s performance. To check them, you can either look through the wheels for any grooves, cracks or rust, or you can remove the wheel and check them out. Replacing them is simple, you will need to remove the wheels and the brake calipers. Then tap them with a rubber mallet, pull it straight out, and install the new on in place.

Figure 3. Heavily grooved and scored brake rotor.

If your brake rotors are in good condition, proceed to Step 4.

Step 4 – Check calipers

They could be sticking.

The calipers rarely ever need to be changed; however, there is always an exception to the rule. The caliper’s piston can stick, which will result in constant friction between the pads and the rotors, even without pressing the brake pedal. This can wear out the brake pads and rotors very quickly and produce burning smell, along with squealing. To check that, look at the gap between the pads and the rotors without stepping on the brake pedal. If there is no gap, then your caliper needs replacement. To replace a brake caliper, you will need to remove it off of the rotor, disconnect the brake line and connecting it to the new caliper, then place the new caliper on top of the rotor and tighten its bolts. You will have to bleed your brakes, because removing the brake line allows air to alter the pressurized brake system.

Figure 4. Sticking brake caliper.

Related Discussions and Article

Jeep Wrangler JK: Why Are My ABS, ESP, and BAS Lights On?

The ABS, ESP, and BAS lights go on when something is wrong with your Jeep Wrangler. Read on to learn the source of the problem.By Bassem Girgis – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The warning lights on your instrumental panel are designed to tell you when there is something wrong with your Jeep Wrangler. The ABS light goes on when your car wants to tell you that there is something wrong in your ABS system. The ESP comes on when something changes in your steering and suspension system. The BAS is the braking assist, and it could mean something went wrong with your braking system. If you have an OBD-II scanner, this will be the quickest way to get answers because the scanner gives you a code that you then compare to a list of codes in your owner’s manual, and you got your answer. However, if you don’t have access to a scanner, here are some potential issues that can cause some of these lights to go on.

Materials Needed

  • Jack and jack stands
  • Tire iron
  • Allen key

Step 1 – Check alignment

It could be off.

Misalignment has been known to activate the ESP light, and sometimes the rest of them as well. Misalignment can cause uneven wear to your tires and cost you new tires much quicker than you’re supposed to replace them. To check for alignment, drive at a consistent speed and watch how the steering wheel reacts when you let go of it slightly. Does your car pull in one direction? If you need an alignment, go to a tire shop as soon as you can and get your car aligned.

Figure 1. Wheel alignment.

If your Jeep is aligned, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check ABS sensor

It could be damaged.

The ABS sensor can cause all of these warning lights to go on if it’s damaged. It is located behind the rotor. To get to it, you will need to loosen the lug nuts on the wheel, raise the Jeep and secure it on jack stands, remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper in place, then use an Allen key to remove the sensor behind the rotor. An OBD-II scanner could tell you right away if your ABS sensor is damaged. Be sure to inspect the wire going to the sensor; sometimes, the wire gets damaged and can cause the warning lights to go on.

Figure 2. The ABS sensor.

Figure 3. Another view of the ABS sensor.

If the sensor is in good condition, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3 – Replace clockspring

It could be damaged.

The clockspring is a common part to fail in the Wrangler JK. The clockspring goes between the steering wheel and the steering column. It is designed to give power to the airbags. Unfortunately for the Jeep wrangler, this part needs to be replaced more than normal cars. To replace it, you will need to remove the steering wheel with all its trim and glory. Replacing it will automatically shut off the warning lights. This job is not recommended for owners with little mechanical skills, as it is a rather complicated procedure.

Figure 4. The clockspring.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Brake Modifications

The rougher conditions you put your Jeep Wrangler through, the better your brakes should be. Learn how to upgrade your brakes here.By Bassem Girgis – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The Jeep Wrangler is designed for hard driving conditions. It is equipped with great stock brakes; however, there is always room for improvement. Nothing will make you feel safer when you’re off-roading than top of the line brake upgrades. Your Jeep stops due to your brake pads clamping on your rotors. This is done through your brake calipers, and it is all pressurized in a system connected with brake lines. As you can tell, between pressure and friction, the brake system is one of the hardest working systems in your car. This guide will shine some light on what you can do to modify your brakes and take your Jeep to the next level.

Brake Modifications

The three modifications we will talk about are aftermarket brake pads, durable steel brake lines, and big brake kits for your big, strong Jeep. Read on to learn about these mods.

Figure 1. Brake kit.

#1 Brake Pads

DIY Cost – $50-180

Professional Cost – $90-250

Skill Level – Moderate; this job requires raising the car and removing the wheels.

Brake pads come in a variety of purposes, prices, and levels. Depending on your type of driving, you can get pads that work specifically for you. There are some pads that are noise-free, some are dust-free, while others are simply performance pads that can withstand a lot of heat from friction.

If you don’t mind the noise but you want the performance, you can have that, or if you don’t care about the dust on your rims but you want that long-lasting pads, you can have that, too.

A lot of aftermarket brake pads, such as Hawk, EBC, Powerstop, along with many others, have been known to increase your stopping power by 30%. If you use your Wrangler for its intended value—which is off the road,—it’s recommended you look for the high performance pads because off the road, dust and noise don’t make a difference, but performance makes all the difference. Recommended for its performance.

#2 Steel Brake Lines

DIY Cost – $60-200

Professional Cost – $200-400

Skill Level – Moderate; this job requires working with corrosive brake fluid.

Nothing says strong like steel. The rubber brake lines tend to wear and crack over time, which causes tiny small brake fluid leaks, but more importantly, it causes air to get into the pressurized brake system and alters its performance.

Weather you live in an area with rough weather conditions, or if you do any types of off-roading, steel lines are a wise decision. As you off-road, the bottom of your Jeep gets exposed to all sorts of things, from debris to actual scratches. The steel brake lines are designed for that purpose. They’re made of durable steel that can withstand weather conditions, rocks, debris, or anything for that matter.

To install these, you will have to measure your old, rubber lines so you get the right sizes, and you will always have to bleed your brakes after.

There are numerous of great brands that make steel lines for your Jeep Wrangler, and to name three: check out Rugged Ridge, Rough Country, and Russell, then choose based on your budget and needs. Recommended for its durability.

#3 Big Brake Kits

DIY Cost – $700-4,000

Professional Cost – $1,500-6,000

Skill Level – Moderate; this job requires the removal of various components and working with corrosive brake fluid.

When it comes to giving your Jeep no excuses, the big brake kits is what comes to mind. These kits can go up in price, but for good reasons. These kits come with everything you may need to increase your Jeep’s stopping power, from aftermarket, durable pads, slotted rotors, performance calipers, to steel brake lines.

The Brembo is one of the most popular brands to make big brake kits, and they have been known to tremendously increase your brake feel and performance.

The slotted rotors allow the heat to escape, the performance pads can withstand rather high temperatures, and the calipers are as responsive as you can imagine a pricey kit should be. Whether you want to feel safe on the road or you want to do the most extreme off-roading—if you can afford it—these kits are probably the best thing you can do for yourself, your Jeep, and for everyone riding with you. Recommended for its performance and durability.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Replace Brake Pads, Calipers, and Rotors

The brake system is the hardest working system in your Jeep Wrangler. Here is how to replace your worn brake pads, your faulty brake calipers, or your dying brake rotors.By Bassem Girgis – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The Jeep Wrangler is designed to go above and beyond in order to exceed all your expectations. With rough conditions, brake components tend to wear out faster. The same goes with heavy traffic, as the friction you need to stop your car is the same reason you wear your brakes; it’s the sacrifice that has to be done to save you. The longer you wait on replacing your brake pads, the more worn your rotors will become. The brake calipers, on the other hand, are not known to need replacement, sometimes for the life of the car. However, there is always an exception and things can go wrong. The caliper’s piston sometimes gets stuck, which results in fast wear for the pads and rotors. In other words, it’s never wise to wait when it comes to brakes because each component directly affects other components. Read on to learn how you can replace your brake pads, calipers, and rotors on your Jeep Wrangler.

Figure 1. Brake components.

Materials Needed

  • Jack and jack stands
  • Tire iron
  • Sockets (18mm and 21mm)
  • Wrench
  • Hose
  • Bottle
  • C-clamp
  • Rubber mallet
  • Brake pads
  • Brake rotors
  • Brake caliper
  • Brake fluid

Step 1 – Raise the car

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels you will be replacing the brakes on. Jack up your car using the proper jack points and secure it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. Jack it from the axle and as close as you can to the wheel you will be working on.

Figure 2. Raise the car and secure it on jack stands.

Step 2 – Replace brake pads

After you’ve removed the wheel, remove the caliper’s bolts using your socket from the back of the caliper. Pull the brake calipers out; if you are not replacing the brake calipers, just remove the brake pads and put the new pads in place. You will have to use your C-clamp to compress the caliper’s piston so it fits the new, thicker pads. Place the caliper back on the rotor and tighten the two rear bolts.

Figure 3. Remove caliper.

Figure 4. Compress caliper’s piston.

  • Figure 5. Replace pads.

Step 3 – Replace rotor

With the caliper removed, be sure it’s not hanging from the brake line and pull the rotor out. Most likely it won’t come off, so tap it with a rubber mallet until it wiggles loose, then pull it straight out. Install the new one in place and install the caliper over it.

Figure 6. Pull the rotor straight out.

Step 4 – Replace caliper

If your brake caliper is faulty and in need of replacement, remove the brake line connected to it and quickly install it onto the new caliper. Place the brake pads into the new caliper, which should come compressed all the way, then place it onto the rotor and tighten the two bolts on the rear. If you replace the calipers, you will need to bleed the brakes because you’ve introduced air to the system.

Figure 7. Brake line to caliper.

Step 5 – Bleed the brakes

You will need to bleed the brake on the wheel you removed the brake line from. The sequence, if you want to bleed the whole system, is as follow: bleed the passenger’s rear side, driver’s rear, passenger’s front, and then finally the driver’s front side caliper. The thought behind this is to begin from the furthest point of the master cylinder and work your way towards it to eliminate any air bubbles.

Locate the caliper’s bleeder screw on the back, install a hose on it and connect the other end of the hose to a bottle. Ask a friend to pump the brake pedal a few times, then keep it pressed down. Loosen the bleeder valve and watch the fluid drain in the bottle. As soon as you stop seeing bubbles in the fluid, tighten the valve and ask the friend to release the brake pedal after. It will likely take a few passes of bleeding the caliper before you stop seeing bubbles in the brake fluid. Be sure to top off the brake fluid reservoir between each wheel. If the reservoir gets too low, air will go into the system and you will have to start all over again.

Figure 8. Caliper’s bleeder screw.

Figure 9. Bleed brakes.

Related Discussions

Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Repair and Replace Parking Brake

The emergency/parking brake serves as a way to keep your Jeep stationary while parked and as a back-up if a brake failure occurred. It uses a steel cable and brake shoes similar to drum brakes. The brake shoes can only be moved so far by the lever until it no longer contacts the rotor, leading to no braking.By Weston Chadwick – November 25, 2015
Contributors: SilverSport. wayoflife

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler (2007-Present).

When you pull up on your emergency brake lever, the cable pulls the brake pads against the rotor. Like any brake pad, the friction material wears, increasing the distance the pad must move to contact the rotor. This is felt as free play in your emergency brake lever and indicates it’s time to adjust or replace the emergency brake pads.

Pro Cost Breakdown

  • Adjustment: $100
  • Replacement: $200-300
  • Parts: $20-100

Materials Needed

  • Floor jack
  • Jack stands (x2)
  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Drum brake spring removal tool or needle nose pliers (replacement only)
  • 18mm wrench or ratchet/socket (replacement only)
  • 19mm socket with 1/2 ratchet (replacement only)
  • Flashlight (adjustment only)
  • Bungee cord or wire (replacement only)
  • Vice grips
  • Slide hammer with axle puller attachment or pry bar (replacement only)
  • 1/2″ torque wrench
  • Safety glasses
  • Rubber gloves

The parking brake shoe adjustment can be done with only the rear wheel raised; although, the star adjusting wheel is difficult to reach.

The procedure to adjust the parking brake without wheel and brake caliper removal will be covered first.

The factory service manual lists the minimum pad thickness as 1/16″ for bonded pads and 1/32″ for riveted pads. The inner side of the rotor will have a stamped minimum thickness number that can be compared with a brake rotor micrometers measurement.

Use the following steps when only adjusting the parking brake. If your replacing the parking park shoes, move to Step 4.

Step 1 – Raise the rear wheels off the ground

Raise the rear wheels with a floor jack using the factory jacking points under the axle tubes. Place jack stands under the jacking points before removing the wheels or crawling under your Jeep. Also, pull the wheels off the car for brake access.

Figure 1. The factory jacking points.

Step 2 – Remove the star wheel access plug

On the back of the brake drum/hub assembly you will see the rubber access plug next to the ABS wheel speed sensor on the backing plate. You may need to disconnect the sway bar end link, depending on how much room you need to work. Remove the plug by prying it out of the backing plate with a pick or flat head screwdriver.

Figure 2. The rubber plug is located between the sway bar end link and star wheel.

Step 3 – Adjust the star wheel

Use a flashlight to locate the star wheel (Figure 2) through the backing plate. You’ll need to turn the star wheel with a flat head screwdriver or brake spoon.

These directions are provided assuming your facing towards the front of your Jeep. Adjust the passenger side by turning the star wheel counterclockwise. While turning, rotate your tire feeling for increased resistance. This is the brake shoes contacting the rotor. You’ll want to get your brake shoes as close to the rotor as possible without rubbing. Continue adjusting the star wheel (counterclockwise to close the gap, clockwise to open) until the ideal point is reached. Repeat the process for the driver’s side, but note that the you’ll need to move the star wheel in the clockwise direction to open the gap and the counterclockwise direction to close the gap.

Once the adjustment at the wheels is finished, check the adjustment at your emergency brake handle. You want the parking brake to begin tightening and engage between four and eight clicks. Try moving the parking brake lever to this point, and place your transmission in reverse with your foot on the brake. Slowly release the brake. You should see the rear of your Jeep lift up and not move, indicating your parking brake is holding. Double check the adjustment using a hill.

If your parking brake lever is still out of adjustment (not within the four to eight click window), readjust the star wheel several clicks at each wheel in the appropriate direction. Make sure the brake shoes are not excessively dragging against the wheels. Continued in-operation of the parking brake lever may indicate worn/broken parking brake shoes, rotors, parking brake cable, or parking brake lever assembly.

Step 4 – Remove the caliper mounting bracket

If you do not have an impact wrench, you’ll need to loosen the 19mm lug nuts a couple turns with the wheels on the ground. Follow Step 1 for the procedure. Two 18mm bolts hold the caliper mounting bracket to the spindle. Turn them counterclockwise to remove them. Once they’re loose, support the brake caliper with a bungee cord or wire to keep pressure off the rubber brake hose.

Figure 3. The brake caliper mounting bracket bolts are circled in red.

Step 5 – Remove the brake rotor

The rotor is not fastened to the hub once the wheel lug nuts are removed. Pull outwards on the rotor to remove it. You may need to tap on the “hat” (raised inner section of the rotor) with a hammer to break loose any rust holding it to the wheel studs.

Figure 4. The inner side of the rear brake rotor.

Step 6 – Remove the axle shaft flange

Begin removing the axle shaft flange by removing the four 18mm nuts holding the axle shaft backing plate to the housing. As you begin to remove the shaft, some differential fluid may leak from the axle tube. Raise the axle tube above parallel to the ground to prevent this. Grab the end of the emergency brake cable where it hooks to the eye loop through the backing plate and twist it free with vice grips. To remove the axle shaft from the axle tube, you’ll need to pull outward on the axle shaft hub flange. This can be done by hand, with a slide hammer, or a pry bar. Be careful not to damage the tone wheel teeth. Pry in multiple positions against the hub flange to reduce binding in the axle tube and differential.

Figure 5. Removing the axle shaft with a slide hammer.

Figure 6. The emergency brake cable eye hook.

Step 7 – Remove the emergency brake pads

Referring back to Figure 2 and using Figure 7, you’ll need to locate and remove the two slide pin clips, yellow locating spring, as well as the return spring on the opposite side. The clips can be pulled off the pins with a flat head screwdriver. The springs can be removed with needle nose pliers or a drum brake spring removal tool. Wiggle the pads free from the backing plate.

Figure 7. The parking brake springs and slide pin clips.

Step 8 – Install the new emergency brake pads

Set the new pads against the backing plate, making sure the pad notches fit into the star wheel adjustment mechanism and backing plate pad stop. Install the yellow locating spring, and then the return spring. Move the pads over the slide pins and install the clips.

Step 9 – Reinstall

Carefully slide the axle shaft back into the axle tube. Torque the four axle shaft nuts to 75 ft. lbs. Re-install the parking brake cable eye hook. Install the rotor back onto the axle, and then the caliper bracket. Torque the two caliper bracket bolts to 75 ft. lbs. Reinstall your wheel and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Why is My Emergency Brake Light On?

When your emergency brake warning light comes on in your Jeep Wrangler, it’s the car’s way of telling you something has to be done regarding your braking system.By Bassem Girgis – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The brake system is the most important one in your Jeep Wrangler, mainly because it’s in charge of your safety. The instrument cluster has warning lights that appear when your car’s computer detects an issue with one of your systems. It’s recommended you act quickly when you see a warning light, but when it comes to the brake system, it’s recommended you act immediately, as your safety could be on the line. The emergency brake light could go on for a number of reasons, this article will work as a guide for you to diagnose the issue. Read on to learn how you can diagnose an emergency brake light on your dashboard.

Figure 1. Emergency brake light.

Materials Needed

  • Flashlight
  • Jack and jack stands
  • Tire irons
  • Socket set

Step 1 – Check emergency brake lever

It could be activated.

The most common and valid reason the emergency brake light would go on is if the emergency brake is activated. Sometimes people lower their emergency brake, but it doesn’t go all the way down, so even though it doesn’t stop the car, it could still activate the light. Activate the emergency brake lever, then deactivate it all the way down.

Figure 2. Ensure emergency brake is down.

If the emergency brake lever is down all the way, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check brake fluid

It could be low.

The brake fluid level has been known to activate the emergency brake light. Locate the brake fluid reservoir under the hood, right in front of the driver side. Check the level to see if it’s lower than the max line. If the fluid is low, top it off and then use your flashlight to look for brake fluid leak. Check under the car on the connections between the brake calipers and lines, then check the master cylinder and all around it.

Figure 3. Brake fluid reservoir.

If the fluid’s level is proper, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3 – Check emergency brake cable

It could be loose.

The emergency brake cables run from under the car where your emergency brake lever is located and back to the two rear wheels. If the cables are loose, they won’t activate the rear emergency brakes, which will cause them to be useless and will cause the car to slide off. If the parking brakes are loose, raise the car and remove the wheels, then tighten the adjustment screws on the emergency brakes. If it’s too loose, you can adjust it from under the Jeep where the two lines meet, which is called the t-case.

Figure 4. T-case located under the Jeep, in the center of the car.

Related Discussions

Jeep Wrangler JK: Brake Pad Reviews

Brake pads come with a variety of performance goals for the Jeep Wrangler. Whether you want powerful pads, dust-free, or silent ones, this guide will help you with what you need.By Bassem Girgis – November 17, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The Jeep Wrangler is designed to go through the toughest terrains. With rough driving conditions, you need great brake pads. Aftermarket brake pads offer a variety of things that will add to your brake system. If you’re the type of person that likes completely silent brakes, you can have that with aftermarket pads that offer that, and if performance is what you’re looking for, you can also accomplish that with some aftermarket pads. This guide will help you invest your money in the right brake pads that offer exactly what you’re looking for. Read on to learn about the popular aftermarket brake pads for your Jeep Wrangler.

Brake Pad Reviews

HawkWagnerRaybestosEBC Greenstuff
Price$76+$39++18.29+$62+
NoiseNoise-FreeLowLowNoise-Free
DustLowLowLowMedium
PerformanceHigh IncreaseBetter Pedal FeelMedium IncreaseHigh Increase
WarrantyLimited Lifetime1 Year30 Days Limited6 Months

Best Quality: Hawk

Best Value: Hawk

Hawk

Price – $76

Noise – Noise-Free

Dust – Low

Performance – High Increase

Warranty – Limited Lifetime

The Hawk brake pads are specifically designed for larger vehicles like the Jeep Wrangler. The bigger the vehicle, the more heated the brake pads get when they try to stop it. These pads are made specifically to withstand higher temperature produced by larger vehicles, all while remaining noise-free and minimal dust. Not that most Wrangler owners do, but dust can get annoying on the road, so Hawk pads produce much less dust than your OEM that you probably won’t notice any. Of course when you’re off-roading, all bets are off because dust is the least of your worries when it comes to cleaning. Some enthusiasts complained that these pads come without tabs to hold them with the calipers; however, if you’re replacing your pads, then you definitely have tabs from the old ones, which you can reuse. If you search the forums or anywhere else for that matter, Hawk will always come on top, simply because they can give you the performance you need when you’re putting your Jeep to the test, all while staying nice and quiet. Also, when you’re driving to work, you won’t have much dust. Recommended if you’re looking for great, reputable pads with great warranty.

Wagner

Price – $39+

Noise – Low

Dust – Low

Performance – Better Pedal Feel

Warranty – 1 Year

The Wagner brake pads are designed for quiet braking and no vibration. These pads are engineered with thermal-sensitive properties that changes depending on the environment you’re driving in, which maintains low noise and smooth feel. They are easy to install and they fit right in your calipers with no headaches, as they come with everything you need, including tabs and grease. Some customers complained that the package was missing some hardware, but if you can check the box before you leave the store, you will face no issues. These pads have been known to be quite popular on the road; however, some Wrangler owners claim that they don’t do very well in extreme off-roading condition, as they heat up quicker than the ones made for off the road use. Recommended if you use your Jeep on the road and do easy to moderate off-roading.

Raybestos

Price – $18.29+

Noise – Low

Dust – Low

Performance – Medium Increase

Warranty – 30 Days Limited

Although Raybestos isn’t a very popular brand, it’s quite popular on the Wrangler forum. These pads are manufactured from semi-metallic materials designed specifically to reduce noise, dust, as well as increase the performance and heat resistance. When it comes to the Wrangler, brake pads get replaced much quicker than normal cars, mainly because it’s a heavy car that gets to be driven in rough conditions. These pads are priced very low, but don’t let the cost fool you, they can stop your Jeep in the worst conditions. The great things about these pads is that you don’t feel bad abusing them, because they’re rather cheap to replace. Some owners, however, complained that the low noise story came to an end very quickly, and even though it was noise-free for a while, that ended and it became quite noisy. The hardcore Jeep lovers will tell you that it won’t stop well, but they are talking about using it in the worst off-roading conditions you can think off. For the average off-roader, these will stop well and get you home safe. Recommended if you’re looking for inexpensive pads with good reputation.

EBC Greenstuff

Price – $62+

Noise – Noise-Free

Dust – Low

Performance – High Increase

Warranty – 6 Months

These pads are built to stop quickly. Sudden stop is what they advertise, so if you want to climb up that mountain and stop before you come down the other side, the EBC Greenstuff will help you accomplish that. These are marketed to produce 30% less dust than your stock brake pads, but who cares about dust if you can stop when you want to. They are backed by six months limited warranty; however, people still love these pads, claiming they last a lot longer than a lot of the other competitors. They are very easy to install and come equipped with everything you need to get stopping. Even though it’s advertised to produce less dust, the owners have one thing in common, that is that it produces brake dust after 800 miles or so. They are known to work best with drilled slotted rotors; however, you don’t have to replace your rotors, and they still work great with your stock rotors. Recommended if you’re looking for great stopping power.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Why is My Brake Pedal Squeaky?

The brake pedal squeak is quite the source for frustration. Your Wrangler may be less than a year old in some cases and now your pedal is noisier than a ten year old car. To complicate things, you may interpret the noise as a serious brake problem (an easy thing to do) and avoid driving to ensure your safety as well as the safety of others. Thankfully, the problem is usually not serious and the remedy is easy to perform.By Weston Chadwick – November 12, 2015
Contributors: jpr79, Baticon

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

When you apply pressure to the brake pedal, the pivot rod moves through the firewall and compresses the brake fluid inside the master cylinder. To achieve smooth pedal operation, the pivot rod is supported by a teflon bushing. This bushing comes in contact with the rubber dust boot behind the brake pedal. The friction created between the two during contact makes the common squeaking noise. Synthetic grease is designed for this purpose and works great on teflon. Once the grease spreads throughout the bushing, the noise should disappear for good.

Materials Needed

  • Rubber gloves
  • Synthetic grease
  • Safety glasses

Make sure the source of your noise is originating from the brake pedal. This noise will occur when your Jeep is stationary.

Step 1 – Lubricate teflon bushing

Behind the brake pedal you’ll see a rubber boot. This boot is designed to keep the grease on the bushings and dirt out. Carefully pull the boot towards the firewall to expose the white teflon bushing. Apply some synthetic grease or similar lubricant to the surface of the bushing. Press and release the brake pedal several times to spread the grease throughout the bushing. You may have to repeat the application several times through the next week to reach all areas on the bushing with a dry surface.

Figure 1. The brake pedal boot.

Figure 2. The brake pedal bushing (circled).

Featured Video: Squeaky Brake Pedal on JK Wrangler

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