Jeep Wrangler JK: OBD Jscan

ברנגלר שלנו לעיתים יש צורך בלבצע שינוי במחשב.

לפיכך קיימים בשוק מספר פתרונות הניתנים לרכישה על מנת לבצע את המשימה

מאמר זה מתאים לרנגלר JK/JL

המחשבים של היום הם מחשבים מאוד חכמים וכמעט כל מדבר מנוהל דרכם.
אצלנו ברנגלר אחד השימושים השכיחים הוא שינוי יחס העברה ומידת צמיגים.
דבר זה נחוץ על מנת לגרום לגיר להבין כיצד לתפקד שהרי הוא ממוחשב.
בנוסף אפשר לשלוט כמעט כל דבר כגון אורות,נעילה\פתיחה של הרכב, אבחון תקלות,ניקון תקלות, ביצוע דיאגנוסטיקה וכו.

עד היום, מוצרים כאלה עלו מאות שקלים\דולרים.
כיום ישנה אפליקציה הנקראת OBDJscan
קישור להורדה לאנרואיד:  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.clever.obd4u
קישור להורדה לאייפון: https://itunes.apple.com/pl/app/obd-jscan/id1445903514

האפליקציה עולה 73 שקלים ובתמורה מקבלים רישיון ל VIN Number (מספר השלדה) שלכם.
היא אינה ניתנת להעברה וניתנת לשימוש אישי בלבד.
יש לרכוש מתאם OBD פשוט עם תמיכה ב Bluetooth:

להלן קישור לדוגמא:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vgate-iCar-PRO-Bluetooth-WIFI-OBD2-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-For-Android-iOs-L2KE/184414143264?hash=item2aeff08320:g:LdgAAOSwcapc6pVH

להלן המלצת כותב האפליקציה למתאמים נתמכים:
http://jscan.net/supported-and-not-supported-obd-adapters/

 

לבעלי רנגלר JL – היות והמחשב יותר משוכלל יש צורך ברכיב נוסף הנקרא Bypass Module
להלן לינק לרכישה שלו: 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S91VZXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_663DJSDJPY24W7BKSHPS

 

להלן הסבר כללי איך להתחבר:

מוזמנים לצפות בחבר מועדון רוני עפרי מדגים שימוש באפליקציה:

 

Jeep Wrangler JK: Why Won’t My Car Start?

An engine that cranks but fails to fire is disappointing, but a few simple tests for fuel and spark will usually uncover the problem. On the other hand, what steps should be taken when your engine will not crank over at all? Almost all no-start issues related to the JK Wrangler involve an engine that simply will not crank when you turn the key.By Joseph Coelho – November 20, 2015

This article applies to the JK Jeep Wrangler (2007-Present).

The JK Jeep Wrangler uses a fair share of modern electrical system components. As with many other Chrysler vehicles, the JK utilizes a Total Integrated Power Module (TIPM) to control and communicate with many other systems throughout the vehicle. The TIPM, along with several other electrical system components, have been know to experience a few quirks that can prevent the engine from cranking over. While starting issues related to a lack of fuel or absence of spark can occur, 99% of all complaints related to a no-start condition on the JK Wrangler revolve around a starter motor that will not spin the engine to allow it to start. This article will outline several common areas that can be inspected to get your 2007 to present JK Jeep Wrangler up and running again.

Materials Needed

  • Battery tester or digital multimeter
  • Metric wrench set
  • Fused jumper wire
  • Battery charger

Step 1 – Check the battery

More often than not, a low or dead battery is the cause of a no-start condition in any vehicle. Batteries have a finite lifespan, with most factory batteries lasting approximately five years. Being exposed to regular temperature extremes (i.e. cold winter months) or not regularly driving the vehicle can take a heavy toll on the battery. In the case of the Wrangler, owners often drive off-road and traverse rough terrain, which can cause battery failure from excessive vibrations. Additionally, modern electronics and alarm systems equipped on cars also have a constant draw on the battery when it is not driven. With that being said, it is not uncommon for a battery to simply fail, even if it has been working flawlessly, and no longer hold a full charge. Keeping these things in mind, the first step to solving a no-start condition is to check the battery voltage.

  • Using a battery tester or digital multimeter, measure the available battery voltage.
  • If the battery is in a healthy state, voltage should read upwards of 12.0 volts. A fully charged battery holds a charge of 12.6 volts. A battery showing a significantly lower voltage level should be charged.
  • If you have a battery tester on hand, placing a load on the battery can often indicate its condition. The battery should be at least 75% charged (12.4 volts) and a load placed on the battery for approximately 10 to 15 seconds. Excessive voltage drop will indicate a bad battery.
  • Be sure the check the battery cables to ensure they are tightened securely to the battery posts or studs. Loose cables will not allow sufficient current to flow to the starter and crank the engine.
Figure 1. Traditional battery load tester.

Pro Tip

If you do not have a battery tester or digital multimeter on hand, auto parts stores will usually test batteries for free.

If the battery is in good condition with a full charge but the engine will not turn over, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check ground straps

A common problem that leads to an intermittent or no-start condition on various JK models is corroded or broken ground straps. Ground straps are in place to allow electrical current to make its way back to the battery after it flows through various electrical components of the vehicle. The JK uses a ground strap that runs from the negative (black) battery terminal to the engine block/bell housing. This strap has been known to corrode and, in some cases, break. The starter uses a large amount of energy from the battery for proper operation, so any excessive resistance in the electrical circuit can cause starting issues. Inspect the condition of the ground strap(s) and ensure it is tight. Many experts agree that it never hurts to install an extra braided eight gauge ground strap to the chassis for electrical current to have a sufficient path to ground.

Figure 2. Example of a broken ground strap.

If the ground straps are in place without any corrosion but the starter will still not operate, refer to Steps 3, 4, and 5.

Step 3 – Safety switch

While safety features have been put in place to keep the car from starting while in gear, they will often act up at some point and cause a no-start issue. The JK 42RLE automatic transmission does not utilize a traditional neutral safety switch, but instead uses and internal transmission range sensor (TRS). The TRS uses a series of four contacts to detect which gear the transmission is in and, if not in park or neutral, prevents the car from starting. Unfortunately, these contacts can wear and prevent the car from starting when in park. In similar fashion, vehicles equipped with a manual transmission have a clutch safety switch that requires the driver to depress the clutch pedal to enable starting. This safety interlock switch can also act up and prevent the engine from cranking.

  • If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, try either shifting into neutral or giving the shifter a slight nudge forward while in park to start the car. Many owners regularly apply pressure to the shifter in order to engage the TRS contacts and start the car.

Figure 3. TRS contacts inside of transmission.

Related Video: JK Wrangler Neutral Safety Switch

  • For vehicles equipped with a manual transmission and 4WD, the car can be started in 4WD low gear without the need for using the clutch. Be prepared, as the car will move forward while cranking. The clutch pedal can also be firmly pumped a few times, which can occasionally allow the safety switch to make proper contact and allow the starter to operate. Additionally, some individuals opt to bypass the clutch switch entirely; however, it is recommended that the clutch switch be replaced if it is found to be the source of the problem.

Step 4 – Wireless control module (early JK models)

Early production model JKs have a tendency to lock-down the wireless control module (WCM), which is responsible for keyless entry, immobilizer functioning, and starting of the vehicle. Apparently the key can emit an electrostatic discharge when placed into the ignition and cause the WCM to essentially go into a security shutdown and prevent the engine from starting. The good news is that a workaround has been put in place to start the car if this problem occurs. The bad news is that it often indicates the WCM is faulty and needs to be replaced with an update unit.

  • Per Technical Service Bulletin 08-007-08, open the TIPM (fuse box) located under the hood in the engine bay. Pull up on the ignition-off draw fuse (IOD). The fuse simply needs to be pulled up to the stop, not entirely removed. Wait 10 to 30 seconds before re-installing the fuse and attempting to start the vehicle. If the procedure allowed the engine to start, it confirms the WCM needs to be replaced. This procedure can be used temporarily to start the car until the module can be replaced.

Figure 4. IOD fuse location.

Pro Tip

An ignition key with a faulty security chip may allow the engine to start, but will immediately die. If your key does not work, it will have to be reprogrammed at the dealer. Try using a spare key in the meantime.

Step 5 – Check starter

If you have made it this far but are still unable to crank the engine, the starter may be faulty. Starters can fail for a variety of reasons, ranging from prolonged cranking to impact damage or water ingestion. It is not necessary to test the starter at the solenoid as in years past, but can instead be completed at the TIPM.

  • With the key on, remove the starter relay from the TIPM (as labeled in Figure 5).
  • Check for power at terminal 30 or 87 with a digital multimeter or test light.
  • If power is at either terminal, jump them together using a fused jumper wire. Be sure the car is in park before attempting to activate the starter.
  • If the engine cranks, the starter is good.
Figure 5. Labeled relay for use in identifying terminals when jumping.

Figure 6. Jeep JK starter.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Why is My Jeep Rattling When Accelerating?

If your Jeep Wrangler rattles when you accelerate, there is definitely something that needs to be tighten on it. Read on to learn how you can diagnose a rattle.By Bassem Girgis – November 19, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The Jeep Wrangler is a car designed for ultimate beatings. It is made to go off the road and handle extreme driving conditions. If you hear a rattling noise when you accelerate, this indicates that something is loose on your Jeep. The more you take your Jeep off the road, the more things will come loose and need to be tightened. It’s recommended you start the diagnoses process as soon as you hear a rattle, because if it’s a loose bolt, the longer you wait, the more you risk losing it completely. Read on to learn how you can diagnose a rattling noise when accelerating.

Materials Needed

  • Socket set
  • Flashlight
  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Rubber mallet

Step 1 – Check plastic shield

It could be loose.

When you go off-roading, the vibration can make some of the screws come loose. Check the plastic shield underneath the engine by your front bumper. It is held in place by eight plastic screws. Use you flat head screwdriver to turn all the screw clockwise, but don’t tighten them. If one of the screws is loose or missing, the shield could rattle around as you accelerate.

Figure 1. Check the plastic shield under the engine.

If the engine shield is tightly in place, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check exhaust manifold

One of the bolts could be loose.

The exhaust manifold is held in place by a series of bolts, so the more you put your Wrangler through the test, the bigger the chances these bolts will come loose. Check all the bolts to make sure they are tightly in place. If there is more than one loose bolts, you could start smelling fumes inside your car, you could experience lack of acceleration, and a louder engine.

Figure 2. Check exhaust manifold’s bolts.

If the manifold is tightly bolted, move on to Step 3.

Step 3 – Check pipes

They could be loose.

The pipes and their connections tend to come loose as you drive in various road conditions. Slide under the car and check the connection between the mid-pipe and the exhaust manifold. Make sure the bolts are tight, then check the connection between the mid-pipe and the tail pipes, making sure they are tight. You can replace any missing bolts from any auto store.

Figure 3. Check all pipe connections.

If the pipes are tightly held in place, proceed to Step 4.

Step 4 – Check steering column’s plastic grommet

It could be loose.

Many enthusiasts have complained that the plastic grommet on their steering column isn’t tightly secured, and it causes a rattling noise when accelerating. Check the rubber grommet and notice the grease marks. If it seems larger, then tap it with a rubber mallet to push it back in towards the driver; it should easily go back in. A lot of the people that experienced this issue claim that it happened again after, so keep an eye on it if the rattling noise returns.

Figure 4. Ensure the rubber grommet is tightly in place.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Why is My Engine Whistling?

Is your Jeep Wrangler making a whistling noise? This guide will help you diagnose the issue.By Bassem Girgis – November 19, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

A whistling noise in the Jeep Wrangler’s engine is not a normal noise. There are several components that can go wrong and cause the engine to make such noise. A whistling noise can be caused by wind, if your window is down a little, or if your weatherstripping is worn. However, if the whistling noise is coming from under the hood, then it’s related to the engine itself, not any exterior parts. Diagnosing this issue is not hard and can be done at home; this guide will help you figure out the issue and shine some light on what you need to do to fix the problem.

Materials Needed

  • Smoke machine
  • Flat head screwdriver

Step 1 – Check for vacuum leaks

You could have air leaking.

A small enough hole in one of the vacuum lines could produce a high pitched whistling noise. The vacuum holes are all made out of rubber, so overtime, and depending on the weather conditions, they get worn and start cracking. First, visually check the rubber hoses for any cracks or wears. If you hear the whistling but you can’t see any signs of wear, use a smoke machine to blow smoke into the brake booster’s line; watch the smoke, if it comes out of one of the lines, there’s your crack.

Figure 1. Brake booster’s vacuum line.

If there are no vacuum leaks, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check your serpentine belt

It could be loose or worn.

The serpentine belt has been known to make a whistling and squealing noises when worn or loose. It’s located on the front of your engine, connecting various engine components together, so when the engine rotates, it turns the belt with it and provides power to these components. To check it, grab it with your hard and check its tightness. Visually check the belt for any cracks or wears. If the belt is loose, the pulleys will rotate at a different speed than the belt, which will create the noise.

Figure 2. Check the serpentine belt.

If the serpentine belt is tight and in a good condition, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3 – Check the tensioner pulley

It could be faulty.

The tensioner pulley has been known to go bad on the Jeep Wrangler JK. It makes a whistling sound when you step on the gas, mostly at higher speeds. Check the pulley for any signs of wears. Be sure it’s smooth and is pulling the belt tightly. Replacing it costs roughly $18 and can be done in 10 minutes.

Figure 3. Check tensioner and idler pulley.

If the pulleys are in good conditions, proceed to Step 4.

Step 4 – Check intake duct

It could be clogged.

This happens more often than it should, where something gets stuck in the intake duct, and sometimes as small as a leaf, but it gets positioned perfectly where it makes the whistling noise. Use your flat head screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the air duct going from the air box to the throttle body. Make sure there is nothing stuck in between it. Also, open the air box and check the air filter, be sure nothing big is stuck in there that could create a whistling noise.

Figure 4. Check air box.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Fuel System Diagnostic

The fuel system is one of the three main systems that make your Jeep Wrangler run. Learn how to diagnose it here.By Bassem Girgis – November 18, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The fuel system, along with your electrical system and your intake system, helps make your engine run. In the Jeep Wrangler, there are a few things that can go wrong with the fuel system that will result in a lack of acceleration, stuttering, or sometimes a non-starting condition. Although the fuel has dangerous fumes, diagnosing the fuel system is not too hard. This guide will shine some light on the common issues that your fuel system can face. It will also show you the necessary steps you need to do to get your Jeep Wrangler back to being the beast that it is. Read on to diagnose your fuel system.

Materials Needed

  • Flashlight
  • Screwdriver

Step 1 – Check for leaks

Your fuel system could be leaking.

If you smell gas, then you may be experiencing a leak. Use your flashlight and slide under your Jeep. Check your fuel tank for any signs of wetness. Also, check all the lines coming out of the fuel tank. If you see any signs of wetness, wears, or cracks, you will have to replace them. Follow the fuel lines to the front of the car, and try to spot any signs of fuel around them. Then, finally, check under your hood by your fuel injectors; they all have rubber O-rings, and overtime these O-rings crack and can cause a leak.

Figure 1. Signs of a leaking fuel tank.

If you don’t spot any leaks, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check fuel filter

It could be clogged.

A clogged fuel filter will cause your Jeep to hesitate when you step on the gas. The Wrangler JK is equipped with two fuel filters; they are not designed to be replaced often; however, sometimes a bad batch of gas can cause it to get clogged. The first fuel filter is located at the bottom of the fuel pump (inside the tank), and the second one is inside the pump itself. To replace it, you will have to drop the whole fuel tank and replace it. Check your engine codes to see if it’s faulty.

Figure 2. Fuel filter.

If the fuel filter is not clogged, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3 – Check fuel pump

It could be faulty.

The fuel pump can go bad, and when it does, it can cause a series of symptoms. If you’re driving at a faster speed and your car sputters out of no where, that’s a bad fuel pump. A very bad fuel pump will cause your car to not start. The first thing you should do is to check the engine codes, this will make your life much easier. If your fuel pump is indeed faulty, you will have to drop the tank. To do so, you will have to remove a series of fuel lines that are connected to your tank, remove two brackets that hold it in place, drop the tank of a jack, and replace the pump from the top of the tank. It’s always recommended you drain the tank from any fuel first.

Figure 3. Fuel pump on top of fuel tank.

If the fuel pump is working properly, move on to Step 4.

Step 4 – Check fuel injectors

They could be faulty.

A bad fuel injector can cause a misfire in your Jeep Wrangler. Besides the fact that their O-rings can wear and leak, the injectors can go bad. Touch the tip of your long screwdriver to the fuel injector, then get your ear to touch the screwdriver, tab the screwdriver and listen for clicking sound. If you hear a clicking noise, that means your fuel injector probably works properly. Repeat this on all injectors to spot the bad one.

Figure 4. Fuel injectors’ locations.

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Jeep Wrangler JK: Super Noise Diagnostic Guide

If your Jeep Wrangler is making noises, this means something went wrong with it. This guide will help you diagnose the source of the noise.By Bassem Girgis – November 18, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The Jeep Wrangler is a beast of a vehicle; however, even beasts can get injured occasionally. A strange noise coming from your car that wasn’t there the day before means something went wrong with your car. There are a lot of components that can go wrong and make noise in your Jeep, so locating the noise will help you tremendously in finding out the source of the problem. If the sound is coming from the engine compartment, then an engine part is the culprit. If it’s from the outside, it could be a suspension issue, and if it’s coming from your wheels, it could be a tire or brake issues. This guide will help you get to the bottom of this to find out exactly what went wrong with your Jeep and how you can fix it.

Materials Needed

  • Jack and jack stands
  • Tire iron
  • Socket set

Step 1 – Clicking noise

Your battery could be dead.

If you go to start your Jeep and instead of starting you experience a clicking noise, this could mean your battery is dead. The clicking noise is your starter trying to crank your engine, but it’s not getting enough power from the battery to do so. This problem can usually be solved by jump starting your car, driving around for a while, and it should recharge. However, if your battery is drained and is not holding charge, then a new battery should be in your immediate future.

Figure 1. Check your battery.

If your battery is not the issue, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check your serpentine belt

It could be loose or worn.

The serpentine belt has been known to embarrass nice cars for years. This rubber belt connect a few components together, so when the engine rotates, it can give them power as well. Overtime, the serpentine belt cracks, wears, and gets loose. This will cause a squeaking noise when you start the car and when you accelerate. Sometimes the noise is rather loud and will take away from the joy of driving your Jeep; it feels like driving a strong beast that is crying and screaming. To check the belt, open the hood and locate it on the front of your engine, inspect it for any wears or cracks, and finally, grab it and make sure it is tight. If it feels loose, then the pulleys probably rotate faster than the belt and create that outrageous noise.

Figure 2. Inspect the serpentine belt.

If the belt is tight and in a good condition, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3 – Knocking noise

Your engine bearing could be worn.

If your engine is knocking, you will have to open it up. This could mean your bearings inside your engine are worn. To replace those, it’s recommended you take the Jeep to a professional, because it requires you to take the top part of your engine off, replace the bearings, then reseal your engine. Of course, if you fail to seal it perfectly, your engine will leak oil and lead to further damage.

Figure 3. Valve cover removed and top end exposed.

If your engine is not knocking, proceed to Step 4.

Step 4 – Clunking and grinding noise

Your suspensions could be bad.

The suspensions in your Jeep take a beating if you use it correctly. The suspension noise could come from various areas. The most common suspension noise comes from bushings. Check the rubber bushing that go between your various metal suspension components. Inspect them for dryness and cracks.

Your shock absorbers could make a nice clunking noise when you go over bumps. Inspect all four them for any oil leaks. Grab them and shake them to see if any noise come out.

Finally, check your coil springs for any visual cracks or rust. This is not as common, but it’s possible. If you have to replace a oil spring, be sure to compress it properly first; the procedure can be quite dangerous if you don’t research how to do it first.

Figure 4. Inspect rubber bushings.

Figure 5. Check shock absorbers.

  • Figure 6. Check coil springs.

If your suspension is in a good condition, proceed to Step 5.

Step 5 – Thumping noise

Your tires could be worn unevenly.

Uneven tire wear could happen when your car is misaligned. It’s important to balance your wheels and align your car as a piece of maintenance if you don’t want to keep purchasing new tires. Inspect your tires for any bumps or uneven wear. Check the inside of the tire towards the car and compare it to the outside towards the road. If your tires are uneven, be sure to figure out why they are uneven before you replace them, so you don’t wear out the new ones.

Figure 7. Uneven tire wear.

If your tires are even, move on to Step 6.

Step 6 – Check your brakes

They could be worn.

The brake pads or rotors could wear and cause a squealing or grinding noise. You will experience that when you step on the brakes. To inspect your brakes, you can see the brake rotor through the wheels; look for grooves or cracks. To inspect the brake pads, raise your car and remove the wheels, remove your caliper and inspect the thickness or your brake pads. The minimum thickness is 2 to 3mm, so anything thinner than that means you need to replace it now before it wears out your rotors and cost you more money.

Figure 8. Inspect your brakes.

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