Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Use SeaFoam

Of all the magic additives out there, SeaFoam has a lot of believers. It is cheap as well as easy to use, and just may be worth a try.By Mark Garrett – November 16, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

SeaFoam appears to actually work in both cleaning the crankcase and fuel system. Modern oils should do an excellent job of keeping your crankcase clean, but if you have a used vehicle, it may take care of past sins. Keeping your crankcase extra clean is not a bad idea. Modern fuels are the same, but fuel injectors really need to be clean to perform correctly, so a cleaner for the fuel system is actually a good idea. SeaFoam may be the solution for your idling or performance issue, so let’s give it a try.

Materials Needed

  • Plastic funnel for gas tank
  • Small plastic funnel
  • SeaFoam

Step 1 – Add to fuel tank

SeaFoam suggests using one can of treatment for up to 16 gallons of fuel.

Figure 1. SeaFoam cleaner.

The more you use, the better it works; for instance, you can add one can to eight gallons of fuel. If you are also adding it to your engine, it is fine to add 1/2 can to the tank and 1/2 can to the engine. Remove the gas cap and pour the SeaFoam into the tank using a funnel. After adding it to your gas tank, just drive as usual to let the SeaFoam circulate throughout the fuel system.

Figure 2. Add to fuel tank.

Pro Tip

The general consensus is adding a can to your tank every oil change works well.

Step 2 – Add to intake

If you are having knocking issues or the engine is running rough, the quickest results happen if you add the SeaFoam through a vacuum line on the engine. Though it is quicker, you have to use caution since you are adding a liquid to the combustion chamber that is made to handle vapor. Most Jeep people add the SeaFoam through the vacuum brake booster hose.

Figure 3. Booster vacuum hose.

Remove the end of the hose shown in Figure 3. Start the engine and allow to run. It may idle rough since the vacuum hose is disconnected. Using a small funnel, slowly poor the SeaFoam in the hose. The engine will probably run rough and may make some noise, but continue to pour 1/3 of the can in. Shut the engine off for 30 minutes or so. Now start your engine and allow to idle. It will smoke like crazy since all of the stuff is burning out of the engine. You can rev it up after a bit and let the smoke die down.

Figure 4. Smoke from exhaust after restarting.

It is fine to drive your Jeep now and continue to let the stuff from your engine get cleaned out. A lot of people say their Jeep runs better and smoother after treatment.

Pro Tip

Don’t be tempted to stick the hose into the can, since taking a slug of liquid could hydro lock the engine.

Step 3 – Add to engine oil

SeaFoam will clean out your crankcase whether there is a little buildup or a lot. SeaFoam suggests using one to 1-1/2 ounces of additive to one quart of oil. One can should be just about right for your Jeep. Pour it into the oil filler cap and replace it.

Figure 5. Add SeaFoam to engine oil filler.

After putting SeaFoam into the engine oil, most people feel that the oil should be changed after a few hundred miles. The oil should look more dirty than usual after and deposits are washed out by the additive.

Pro Tip

Some fellow Jeep enthusiasts say that Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner, Chevron Techron, Marvel Mystery Oil and other additives work just as well. Personally, SeaFoam is the only cleaner that I have seen work, but the other may work well.

Related Discussions

Jeep Wrangler JK: Air Intake Review and How To

Performance intake systems are made by many different manufacturers. If you’re ready to purchase one but unsure of which will be the best for you, you’ve came to the right place. This article compares and contrasts many of the popular intake systems available for the JK today.By Weston Chadwick – December 30, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

Air intakes reduce engine intake temperatures by moving the intake opening away from the engine’s heat. Reduced engine temperatures creates a denser air intake charge, which combines with more fuel to generate more power. Performance air intakes use a high flowing synthetic filter and an aluminum or polyethylene tube. These materials are constructed with smooth bends to reduce restriction and keep intake flow high.

Table of Contents

How to Install an Air Intake

Materials Needed

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Ratchet
  • Extension
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 4mm Allen wrench

This guide is based off the K&N cold air intake installation.

From 2007 to 2011, the Jeep JK used the 3.8 liter engine. The JK now uses the 3.6 liter Pentastar engine. Although the steps are similar for intake installation, the locations of bolts and electrical connectors is different. These differences will be highlighted during the guide.

Step 1 – Disconnect negative battery cable

Use your 10mm socket and disconnect the negative (black) battery terminal. Refer to the article How to Replace Battery.

Step 2 – Remove your engine cover

The engine cover needs to be removed for access, pop it off and set it aside.

Refer to the article How to Replace Camshaft Position Sensor for detailed instructions. This step is not required for the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 3 – Remove the air intake tube

Start by removing the two bolts holding the intake tube to the air shroud. Remove the rubber line from the intake tube by pulling it out of the tube grommets.

Loosen the worm gear hose clamps at the air box and throttle body with a flat head screwdriver. Pull and twist the intake tube off the throttle body, but be careful as the air inlet temperature sensor connector is still attached. The sensor is located on the left side of the intake pipe near the throttle body. Disconnect the sensor by squeezing the flexible tab on the connector and simultaneously pulling the connector away from the sensor. Twist and pull the intake tube off the air box.

On the 3.8 liter, the I.A.T. sensor is located on the right side of the intake tube near the throttle body. The connector style is different. To disconnect it, slide the red locking tab up and squeeze the flexible tab while pulling the connector away from the intake tube.

Figure 1. The intake tube to air shroud bolts.

Figure 2. Removing the intake tube from the throttle body.

  • Figure 3. Removing the I.A.T. sensor on the 3.8 liter.

Step 4 – Remove the air filter housing

Disconnect the crankcase rubber vent hose from the plastic vent tube. Carefully pull and twist the rubber off the plastic, then lift up and remove the air box.

On the 3.8 liter engine, the crankcase hose connects to the air box. Once it’s removed, loosen the clamp holding the intake tube to the throttle body, and pull upwards on the air box to dislodge it from the mounting grommets.

Figure 4. The crankcase hose location.

Figure 5. Removing the air box from the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 5 – Install the new air filter box

This step will vary by manufacturer, as each uses their own style of air box. Start by removing the bolt connecting the air box mount bracket to the inner fender. Also, remove the bolt that secures the radiator to the core support. Install the brackets, lid, and trim to the new heat shield. Leave off the top lid for now. Place the heat shield into the vehicle and tighten down the mounting bolts. This includes the two bolts removed from the air box mounting bracket and radiator core support. Install the new air filter into the air box and secure it with a hose clamp. Install the air box cover lid, making sure the lid mounting brackets are correctly positioned to create an air tight seal in the air box.

If you have a 3.8 liter engine, you’ll need to remove both bolts from the air box mounting bracket and the power steering reservoir bolt. K&N also has you remove a bolt to the right of the power steering pump pulley to mount a bracket.

Figure 6. The air box mounting bracket bolt.

Figure 7. The power steering pump reservoir bolt.

  • Figure 8. Installing the new bracket on the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 6 – Install the new intake pipe

Install the new hose onto the air box and throttle body. Secure the hose to each with hose clamps. Before installing the new pipe, you’ll need to screw the new vent fitting into the intake tube and remove/install the air temp sensor. The air temp sensor slides into a rubber grommet. Gently twist/pull it from the factory intake tube. Applying a small amount of Vaseline to the rubber grommet makes installation easier. Slide the new vent hose onto the vent fitting. The new intake may no longer have locations for the two air shroud mounting bolts. Zip tie the coolant overflow hose to a nearby component to achieve a factory style route if no new mounts are included. Now install the intake pipe into the air box and throttle body and tighten down the required hose clamps. Re-connect the crankcase vent hose to the vent tube and the I.A.T. sensor to the electrical connector. Finish the installation by re-installing the engine cover and re-connecting the negative battery cable.

Remember to re-install the power steering reservoir pump bolt for 3.8 liter engine owners.

To test for leaks, first start the engine. Listen for any hissing noises around the intake piping. If you have propane available, spray some around the intake tube connections. Rising engine RPMs while emitting propane indicates an air leak.

Air Intakes Review

An air intake is one of the most common upgrades done not only on the Jeep JK, but almost any motorized vehicle you encounter. This is for good reason. The intake is easily accessible and most factory intakes are made from bulky plastic that wind throughout the engine bay. Aftermarket intakes bump up the quality and slim down the bulkiness by using aluminum and other materials to create smooth bends and larger openings. The result is a small increase in horsepower, throttle response, and even fuel economy. An added bonus is the sportier sound that emits from the intake filter during spirited driving. There are even intakes available specially designed for extreme off-road expeditions.

Performance5-10 HP5-10 HP5-10 HP8 HP, 11 ft/lbs Torque5-10 HP5-10 HP
LifespanReusable filterReusable filterReusable filterReusable filterReusable filterReusable filter
Warranty1 year90 days4 years/100,000 miles (limited)5 years (limited)1 million miles (limited)1 year

Best Quality: Volant

Best Value: Redrock

Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Re-Oil Air Filter

Cleaning your air filter regularly is important to maintain your Jeep’s performance. With heavy off-road use, your filter can get dirty really quickly, so follow the article below to keep your Jeep running great!By AJ Mawley – December 15, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

Do you have an aftermarket cold air intake? One of the many benefits of your intake is that it’s washable. Just like any air filter, your air filter gets dirty over time with road grime, which inhibits the performance of your Jeep. Since your engine makes power via air flow, restricting air flow is extremely detrimental! Follow the guide below to restore any lost performance experienced with a dirty filter.

Materials Needed

  • Air filter cleaning kit
  • Water and a brush

Step 1 – Apply cleaning spray to filter

After removing the air filter from the vehicle, shake off any loose dirt on the filter. When nothing comes out when you shake it around and tap on it, liberally apply the cleaning spray included in any air filter cleaning kit.

Figure 1. Apply cleaning spray to filter.

Pro Tip

Make sure you spray both the inside and outside of the air filter with cleaning solution.

Step 2 – Agitate filter with brush

After applying the cleaning spray to the filter, use a small amount of water to wet the filter. Then, use a brush to go around the filter and loosen any dirt that might be on the filter. Do not forget the inside of the filter.

Figure 2. Agitate filter with brush.

Pro Tip

Do not use a harsh brush because you will risk damaging the filter.

Step 3 – Wash filter with water

Now, use water at a high pressure and thoroughly clean your air filter in an out. Some cleaning kits have a dyed cleaning solution. In this case, watch for the solution coming out of the filter to be clear. After washing the filter with water, you are almost done! Wait for the filter to dry for a few hours. Leaving the filter in the sun will expedite this process.

Figure 3. Washing filter.

Step 4 – Re-oil and install filter

Starting at the top of the filter, add the recommended amount of oil based on the kit that you purchase. It is better to use less oil instead of risking over oiling the filter. After letting the oil settle for a few minutes, the filter is ready to be installed!

Figure 4. Oiling filter.

Pro Tip

Over oiling your filter can cause your engine to run terribly, due to oil buildup on the MAF sensor wires.

Featured video: How to Clean and Oil Air Filter

Related Discussion

Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Install Snorkel

Installing a snorkel is not that difficult. It will give your Jeep a great rugged look and it functions better off-road.By AJ Mawley – December 15, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep JK (2007-Present).

Installing an intake snorkel is one of the most rewarding modifications for your Jeep. They not only look great, but the air your engine breathes is cleaner, cooler, and you can drive your Jeep deeper under water. With this mod, your Jeep will become even more fun off-road because it will become less limited and the types of terrain you can explore becomes more diversified. Now, let’s get on to the install and see how you can easily perform this modification yourself!

Materials Needed

  • Screwdriver
  • Putty knife
  • Drill with stepped drill bit
  • Pliers
  • 10mm socket, 1/2″ socket, and ratchet
  • RTV
  • T30, T40, T50 socket
  • Black paint
  • Dremel with cutting disk

Step 1 – Remove windshield bracket and cowl

First, remove the windshield bracket, as shown in Figure 1, by removing the six T40 bolts that hold it on to the car’s frame. Next, remove the wiper blade cowl by removing the four T40 bolts that hold it on to the chassis. Lastly, remove the wiper blade arms by remove the 1/2″ bolts that hold them on. The entire cowl will lift off when you “unlock” the sliding brackets at the firewall.

Figure 1. Windshield bracket removal.

Figure 2. Remove wiper cowl.

  • Figure 3. Remove wiper blade arms.

Pro Tip

Keep track of all of your bolts, so none of them go missing or end up in the wrong location. We recommend bagging and tagging all fasteners.

Step 2 – Remove door and fender

Now, remove the door by removing the T50 bolts at each hinge. Have someone ready to grab the door, as it is heavy and will not be supported when the bolts are removed. Next, remove the four 10mm bolts alongside the fender in the engine bay as shown in Figure 5. Then, remove the two 10mm bolts near the wiper cowl and the five 10mm bolts on the upper side of the fender liner as shown in Figure 7.

Figure 4. Remove passenger side door.

Figure 5. Remove four 10mm bolts on fender.

Figure 6. Cowl bolts.

  • Figure 7. Fender liner bolts.

Step 3 – Remove inner fender bolts for more access

Remove the two inner 10mm cowl bolts located near the center of the door entry and between the door hinges. There are also two pinch fender bolts under the inner fender that might need to be removed for access. Now, the fender can be broken free from the chassis. From the factory, an adhesive is applied at the fender, which has to be broken free by a putty knife. One of the last things needed to be removed before the fender can be pulled off is the antenna wire, which can be pulled off with pliers.

Figure 8. Inner fender bolts.

Figure 9. Separating fender from chassis.

  • Figure 10. Removal of antenna cable.

Pro Tip

Be very careful with the putty knife, as it can scratch your paint.

Step 4 – Drill out welds and modify fender

Drill out the welds connecting the fender and upper cowl. So, the fender has to be drilled from the top to drill out the welds. The locations of the welds are shown in the picture below. Now, the fender can be pulled off completely. The next step might be the most nerve racking part of this install. Use your rotary grinder and cutting wheel to cut the fender with the stencil provided in the snorkel kit.

Figure 11. Remove fender by drilling out welds.

Pro Tip

Take your time here. You will look at any mistake you make every time you see the car.

Step 5 – Remove intake box and install snorkel ducting

Remove the lower and upper parts of the intake box to prepare for the snorkel install as shown in Figure 12. Next, mock up the lower box of your snorkel kit using the instructions provided in the kit and check for fitment. Then, remove the lower box. The aluminum intake tract connecting the intake box and the snorkel will be installed next. In this example, the intake tract uses a power steering line bracket to keep it in place. The 90-degree elbow connecting the lower box and the intake tract will be installed now. Use RTV at all connections to ensure a good seal.

Figure 12. Lower box mocked up.

Figure 13. Install intake tract.

  • Figure 14. 90-degree elbow install.

Pro Tip

Check for leaks before moving on to the next step.

Step 6 – Install snorkel

If you want the snorkel to be more pleasing to the eye, use Figure 15 as a guide of where to paint your cowl to make the snorkel assembly blend in better.

Figure 15. Painting cowl black.

The next piece of the snorkel assembly can now be attached as shown in Figure 16. Then attach the drain hose at the bottom of the snorkel, making sure that the valve is kept closed upon installation.

Jeep Wrangler JK: How to Repair Cracked Manifold

The exhaust manifolds on your Jeep are known to crack. You can replace them or try the following for a quick fix.By Mark Garrett – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

The exhaust manifolds on your Jeep are in a pretty hostile environment. They get extremely hot, then water splashes on them and they instantly cool down. When you consider there is a lot of weight from the exhaust that hangs from them, it is no wonder they crack. Usually I don’t recommend quick fixes, but this one is an easy and lasting one. It is easy to do yourself as long as you are committed to getting in there and getting it done. Once you get the heat shields off, it is actually really easy. Plus, the best part is it’s really cheap and you may experience a better performing engine! You may have to replace the manifold later, but to get it fixed now, this is a great way to do it.

Materials Needed

  • Penetrating fluid spray
  • 3/8″ drive ratchet and long extension
  • U-joint for 3/8″ ratchet
  • 10mm socket
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Quiksteel or Thermosteel

Since you must remove two manifold bolts plus one nut, caution is required. If you break any of these, a simple repair will turn into a major one.

Step 1 – Remove heat shield

The heat shields cover the crack, so they must go. Remove the two bolts that hold the upper shield in place with a 10mm socket and a very long extension with a U-joint. The lower shield is held on by a 10mm nut. Soak it with penetrating fluid and allow to set before trying to crack it loose.

Figure 1. Exhaust heat shields.

Figure 2. Removing bolt with extension and U-joint.

  • Figure 3. Lower heat shield nut.

Pro Tip

Allow the penetrating fluid to soak in as long as possible to do its job.

Step 2 – Clean cracked area

It is very important to clean really well the area where the crack is. A wire brush will get the loose stuff off. Consider spraying down the whole area with brake cleaner.

Figure 4. Cracked manifold.

Figure 5. Manifold cleaned with wire brush.

Pro Tip

The better the prep, the better the repair.

Step 3 – Apply sealer

Both Quiksteel and Thermosteel are Blue Magic products that fellow Jeep enthusiast recommend. Follow the directions when applying. The first thing to do is mix the sealer really well. If you don’t, it will not set up and make a mess you don’t want to deal with. Then apply it to the cracked area as thick as possible. You can use your finger or a flat blade screwdriver. Work it in to the crack, so it really gets in there and seals it.

Figure 6. Thermosteel sealer.

Figure 6. Thermosteel sealer.

Once applied, it has to cure for at least several hours. Overnight is better. Start your Jeep and let it run for a few minutes, then stop. Do this several times so the sealer gradually gets heated up more and more. You will be able to smell it for several days until it really gets cured.

Figure 8. Sealer applied.

Pro Tip

Waiting overnight is the best, as is the slow heating up after done. Your patience will be rewarded!

Step 4 – Reinstall heat shields

Reinstall the heat shields. Start with the bottom one held on with the nut. Just snug it up. Then put the two bolts back in the head, being very careful to get them started without being cross-threaded. Torque them to 22 ft/lbs. Now you are done and not only will your Jeep be quiet, but the oxygen sensor will not pick up what it thinks is a lean condition. Enjoy!

Pro Tip

Since you are there, apply anti-seize compound to the bolts and nut so they come out easy next time.

Related Discussions

Jeep Wrangler JK: The Ultimate Exhaust Manifold Guide

Leaky exhausts sound bad. If your Wrangler sounds embarrassing, a cracked exhaust manifold is likely the problem.By Mark Garrett – November 25, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Wrangler JK (2007-Present).

You take your Wrangler a lot of places. If you go off-road, water can splash on hot exhaust manifolds and crack them. If they crack, the exhaust leak will sound horrible—like an old tractor. Sometimes the manifold just cracks after getting some age on it. Fortunately, you have a multitude of choices when it comes to replacement manifolds. Stock cast iron manifolds can be purchased from many companies and if you want to upgrade, you can choose fabricated stainless steel manifolds. Changing exhaust manifolds is not really any fun, but as long as you have patience, you can do it.

Table of Contents

How to Replace Exhaust Manifold

Materials Needed

  • Light
  • 3/8″ drive ratchet set
  • long extensions and U-joint
  • 10mm and 15mm sockets
  • Penetrating fluid
  • Anti-seize compound
  • Manifold
  • Torque wrench
  • Jack and stands (optional)

Before we get too far, keep in mind that bolts related to the exhaust system are often locked up. Since the manifold bolts go into the aluminum heads, if a bolt twists off or ruins the threads, you will be very, very unhappy. Use extreme care removing these. It may be necessary to use an acetylene torch to break bolts free.

Step 1 – Locate the exhaust manifolds

Lift the hood and locate the exhaust manifolds down to the sides of the engine below the valve covers. A heat shield covers them and the spark plugs are cradled by them.

Figure 1. The manifolds are deep down in an unfriendly place.

Step 2 – Remove exhaust pipe

Your Wrangler sets pretty high, but you may still need to jack it up to get the access you need to the exhaust bolts. Use standard precautions when jacking it up.

Figure 2. Exhaust bolt.

The exhaust pipes are held on by two bolts that screw into nuts with keepers to make removing them a little easier.

Figure 2. Exhaust bolt.

The exhaust pipes are held on by two bolts that screw into nuts with keepers to make removing them a little easier.

Figure 4. Rusty exhaust nuts and keepers.

Step 3 – Remove heat shields and manifold

The heat shields are made of thin sheet metal. The top is held on by two of the manifold bolts. Remove them with a 10mm socket and extension. The lower one is held on with a single nuts that is also 10mm.

Figure 5. Heat shield and manifold bolts visible.

Figure 6. Exhaust manifold heat shields.

  • Figure 7. Exhaust manifold showing lower heat shield stud (arrow).

Remove the remaining four bolts and lift the manifold and gasket off. Clean the head where the manifold bolts on. Also, be sure the exhaust pipe flange is smooth for a good seal.

Figure 8. Engine without manifold.

Step 4 – Replace the manifold

Install the nut clips on the manifold with anti-seize on the nut threads. Put the new manifold and gasket in place on the head. Put anti-seize compound on all of the bolt threads. Start the four bolts that do not hold on the heat shield and tighten finger-tight. Starting from the middle and going out, torque the four bolts to 22 ft/lbs. Start the exhaust bolts in the nut keepers and snug up the two evenly. Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs. Install the upper heat shield and torque the bolts to 22 ft/lbs, then the lower one and tighten the nut snugly. That does it for replacing a stock manifold.

Figure 9. New exhaust manifold.

Exhaust Manifold Review

Your choices for manifolds are plenty. It is easier to just replace the iron manifold with another one, but more than likely it will crack again. Stainless steel replacements are now offered that look like a header, but fit just like a stock. They will last a long time, but are more expensive. There may be a slight performance gain with these ‘shorty’ replacement, but not much.

DormanCrownRugged RidgeGibson
MaterialCast steelCast steelStainless steelStainless steel
LengthStockStockShorty, stockShorty, stock
WarrantyLimited LifetimeLimited LifetimeLimited LifetimeLimited Lifetime

Best Quality: Gibson

Best Value: Dorman


Price – $70Material – Cast steelLength – StockCARB Approved – YesWarranty – Limited Lifetime

A good OEM replacement. Fits like the original, which is good, but it will also crack like the original. Includes gasket and heat shield. Cast iron construction, which is the same as the original. Leak-resistant for long lasting performance. Dorman is an old supplier, so they know how to make parts. Recommended for anyone looking for a standard OEM replacement and needs the heat shields.

Shop around for the best price.


Price – $70Material – Cast steelLength – StockCARB Approved – YesWarranty – Limited Lifetime

Another good OEM replacement with all of the advantages and disadvantages. No heat shields or gaskets included. Crown Automotive is a manufacturer and distributor of quality replacement parts for Jeeps. Recommended for anyone looking for a standard OEM replacement without the heat shields.

Shop around for the best price.

Rugged Ridge

Price – $325Material – Stainless steel, fabricatedLength – StockCARB Approved – Check with sellerWarranty – Limited Lifetime

These are what are commonly called ‘shorty headers’ that are designed to fit in the place of the OEM cast manifolds. There may be weight savings, but don’t look for a lot of increased performance. They should not have the cracking issues that the stock manifolds have. Rugged Ridge exhaust headers are constructed of 409 stainless steel to ensure a long life. Each complete kit includes manifolds, gaskets, hardware, clamps and instruction sheets. Recommended for those who want an improvement over OEM, but still fit with the stock exhaust.

Stainless steel will not rust.


Price – $615Material – Stainless steel, fabricatedLength – StockCARB Approved – YesWarranty – Limited Lifetime

These OEM replacements are fabricated of stainless steel and have a ceramic coating, which keeps the heat inside them. They will never rust and should last a long, long time. Every Gibson header is Dyno-tuned and engineered to deliver more usable horsepower and torque at low as well as mid-range RPM. Designed as a direct replacement for the factory manifolds, using the stock crossover pipe will not affect the factory warranty. Recommended for those who want an improvement over OEM, but still fit with the stock exhaust.

Ceramic coated stainless steel will not rust.

Price – $615Material – Stainless steel, fabricatedLength – StockCARB Approved – YesWarranty – Limited Lifetime

These OEM replacements are fabricated of stainless steel and have a ceramic coating, which keeps the heat inside them. They will never rust and should last a long, long time. Every Gibson header is Dyno-tuned and engineered to deliver more usable horsepower and torque at low as well as mid-range RPM. Designed as a direct replacement for the factory manifolds, using the stock crossover pipe will not affect the factory warranty. Recommended for those who want an improvement over OEM, but still fit with the stock exhaust.

Ceramic coated stainless steel will not rust.